Under an inky black sky home to the brightest of stars, I am scrubbing red dust from my feet while surrounded by bubbles in the outdoor bathtub. I have quickly discovered that ingrained red dust is a part of life in the Kimberley, hence the scrubbing brush and bath salts perched on the shelf in my villa at the Berkeley River Lodge.

As I laze back gazing up at the canopy of stars, the vastness of the universe almost overwhelms me, just like the landscape. It’s the kaleidoscope of colours – azure waters, red cliffs, white sand and blue skies – that seduces you.

Accessible only by sea or air, this is one place where the journey is almost as good as the destination. The 60-minute flight in a small seaplane from Kununurra takes passengers over a patchwork of sandalwood farms, green pastures and lots of red soil with streams snaking across the plains.